Acne Studios Men’s Spring 2023 Paris
A twisted wedding party.
The Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection celebrates the joy of dressing up with a hint of subversion, skewing traditional formal dress codes for a modern, idiosyncratic take on occasionwear.
With pandemic restrictions lifting, it’s wedding season on steroids in many countries. Having attended his fair share in recent months, Jonny Johansson imagined his Acne Studios men’s collection as a wedding party with a twist, with each look assigned to an imaginary guest.
Dress code? Anything goes. Tailoring options included a blue satin suit that carried echoes of Adam Sandler in “The Wedding Singer,” and an oversized linen version printed with a pastel drawing of silk bows by artist Karen Kilimnik. But most of these outfits defied categorization, reflecting the fluid state of menswear in general.
A salmon pink sweater trimmed with a kitschy tulle ruffle was worn with pink leather shorts studded with rosebud earrings, and silver tinsel socks. Or how about a pair of micro shorts, hidden under a silky lime green satin shirt and a sweater that unspooled into loose threads? Even his “bride” wore white shorts.
“When you go to a wedding, you do the best you can in the occasion wear genre. And then you always have these rebels who can’t stick to the concept. I think they’re very interesting,” the designer said. It’s clear this genre-defying collection was squarely aimed at those nonconformists.
The lineup was a taster for his women’s show next fall, which will mark the brand’s 10th anniversary of showing in Paris. It’s also been a decade since Johansson himself got married. For all his sardonic outlook on the institution, he sees weddings as sentimental occasions.
“For me, it’s a quite serious thing and a quite ridiculous thing at the same time. That’s why it’s so interesting, I think,” he reflected.