MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO Men’s Spring 2023 Paris The week before the men’s shows began in Paris, Mihara Yasuhiro turned 50.
Having been deprived by the pandemic of “the last show of his forties,” the Japanese designer was in a mood to celebrate for his return to a physical show in Paris.
Or at least that’s what one would imagine from the confetti liberally strewn in the Passage des Princes, one of Paris’ picturesque shopping arcades. It turned out to be one of the many misdirections the Japanese designer played with, starting with the buffet of vegan sushi painstakingly replicating the look, texture and taste of their fish-centric counterparts offered upon arrival.
Further into the arcade, Mihara could be found sporting a high-vis vest and matching sneakers, sweeping the runway strewn clean of foil confetti, as if they’d somehow transferred from his previous show in Tokyo.
Speaking through an interpreter, he explained that given the suffocating times we were living in, the idea of trompe-l’oeil had felt like a good way to turn all those frowns upside down.
“Maybe I’ m tired? In my mind I was thrown into a box, and before I knew it the lid was closed and I was locked inside. The current state of consciousness can be deceptive; rather, right now, the more superficial, the better. You may be able to conceal with superficial lies, but you will not be able to conceal the truth.” Mihara Yasuhiro Trompe l'oeil is a method in which a door, window, or other similar item is drawn inside a space to deceive the viewer. Revealing the humour of this suffocating real world to light, where despair reigns supreme and too much information causes mayhem. he general consensus is that fashion can be a therapeutic outlet. Sweats are superimposed with a transfer-print of vintage clothing, tops covered with mesh fabrics, and intentionally fixed parts. Transfer-print of vintage apparel, mesh-fabric tops, and purposefully fastened portions. The Spring Summer collection is based on Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO's speciality—layered and docking styles—with several humorous features. Military workwear, including denim, which is seen by Mihara as a symbol of mass production and stereotypes, has undergone a number of changes, beginning with ageing and distressing, and warped silhouettes based on the concept of Trompe l’ oeil which are used throughout. The designer's distinctive expressive techniques and re-imagined hand-painted prints are also included. Many of the pieces in the collection were inspired by vintage clothing from the 1950s and 1970s. The designer, however, did not stop there. Partially sunburned areas, button impressions, careful creases, and loose threads are all preserved within the garments - common techniques often seen within vintage clothing. In addition to the modified series that symbolises Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO’ s reinterpretation for women, the “shrink series” . The use of filling fabric to draw attention to the female figure has progressed even further. This season, the new style ‘GEORGE’ will make its debut this season. These sneakers will have original clay soles, similar to the running shoes that were popular in the late 1980s and early 1990s.
He started off by sending out pieces that were mashups of entire outfits, like a jacket with shirt tails and a T-shirt peeking under the hem; or a sweater knotted at the waist, or rather the sleeves tied at the waist in lieu of a belt. Others were the leftover parts, like boleros that were just the sleeves of a blouson connected behind the shoulder blades.
Later, utilitarian basics were dressed up with prints, like a grandpa cardigan with a camera strapped across the front or a boy scout’s bandana and shirt onto a zippered hoodie (for him); and a belted sequin dress or a tiered pleated skirt (for her). Even the distressing of leather jackets was put on, mimicking vintage clothing, a personal interest of the designer.
Closer inspection revealed that despite their apparent complexity, garments erred on the side of ease. It was all witty and impeccably executed.
STAFF CREDIT STYLING FOR MENS: MIHARA YASUHIRO STYLING FOR WOMENS : YUKARI OHTA @ SLEEPINGTOKYO HAIR: MARTIN CULLEN MAKE UP : JENNY COOBMS CASTING DIRECTOR : RENE DE BATHORY SHOW PRODUCTION : Devi Sok (PARIS) / MICHIO HOSHINA @ PLANKTON (JAPAN) LIGHTING AND SOUND : LUMIERE AND SON BY LENI SHOW VIDEO PRODUCTION : INFAS.COM RUNWAY PHOTO : LUCA TOMBOLINI DETAIL PHOTO : PIETRO D’APRANO BACKSTAGE PHOTO : ZOE LOWER SOUND EDITOR : THE LOOP MECHANICS SOUND CONSTITUTION : MIHARA YASUHIRO INTERNATIONAL PRESS : DLX PR UK & US PRESS : PURPLE Special Thanks All Models: Antônio – @antoniostephon Dan – @danrogers__ Jako – @jakobastrand Paolo – @grebicpaolo Jesse – @jesse.jayms Eli – @eli_waddell Iannis – @ctelin Mathias – @mathiaslamin Fatou – @samb_fatou Alina – @ali.hhhhhhhhhhhhh Claude – @besty_claude Moritz – @moritz4thewin Heva – @hevadametto Darius – @daariusjwn Tosan – @toos_ie Kozy – @bozykozy Lamich – @lamich.kirabo Noe – @noe.lanter Ko – @ko_nakano Eva – @eva.malte Simon – @simonmartyn_ Paul – @paul_lrbt Minnie – @sknnieminnie Mo – @mo_ssibal Marina – @marina__genovese Cheick – @iamcheikhkebe Akito – @akito_mztn Luca – @lucanwak