Junya Watanabe, renowned for his eclectic design repertoire, often leaves audiences guessing with his creative leaps — from sci-fi futurism to punk or tailored formalwear. Yet his Fall collection, unveiled last Friday, leaned more toward familiarity than surprise.
The show’s setting—a stark, concrete venue covered with Filson advertisements—gave a clear nod to his latest collaboration. Filson, an American heritage outfitter established in 1897, brought its rugged outdoorsy vibe to the runway, reinforcing Watanabe’s ongoing love for functional, storied brands like Levi’s.
Burly, mature models dominated the cast, sporting bushy beards, long white hair, and slow cowboy strides, a reflection of the current menswear trend toward embracing rugged masculinity. This “daddy casting” was striking, not just for its age diversity, which feels fresh and hot, but also for what it reveals. In 2025, brands are chasing profits, and they know that the streetwear-loving youth of 2016 might not have the spending power anymore.
The collection leaned into sexy, working-class undertones. Think “truck driver chic” meets “bill collector kunt”—grown, real, and grounding. These vibes elevated the textiles and details, making them feel even more desirable. The models wore variations of Filson’s iconic workwear: jac shirts and cruiser jackets reimagined with leather patchwork, tartan, buffalo checks, insulated quilting, and pops of safety orange.
Highlights included a striking red-and-blue flannel combo—a lumberjack Superman color story—and a brimmed hat with a tie combo that had “civil rights realness” undertones. Grooming was on point, with standouts like the man rocking a salty blonde “bussdown,” who absolutely ate.
While the craftsmanship was undeniable and the aesthetic aligned with a cultural shift toward heritage Americana, the designs lacked innovation. The collection conjured images of truck stops, country hardware stores, and hipster coffee shops rather than breaking new ground. Observers might find themselves comparing the vibe to Dsquared2’s rugged sensibilities, raising questions about originality.
Backstage, Watanabe likened Filson’s legacy to that of Levi’s 501s — enduring and timeless. However, he declined to elaborate on the revival of the lumberjack trend, which peaked in Japan, Williamsburg, and Seattle a decade or so ago.
The collection wasn’t without its merits. As always, Watanabe’s mastery of jeans and pants stood out, with pieces that felt distinct and wearable. But overall, the show felt more nostalgic than innovative. For a designer who thrives on surprise and reinvention, this season’s offering played it too safe, leaving the audience wanting more.
Verdict: Technically sound but creatively underwhelming, Watanabe’s Fall collection may appeal to heritage enthusiasts but falls short of his usual standard for boundary-pushing brilliance.
Junya Watanabe MAN AW25 @junyawatanabe
Hair by @kiyokoodo
Make0up by @anthonypreel_
