Maison Margiela returned to Paris for Spring/Summer 2027 under the creative direction of Glenn Martens, continuing the designer’s dialogue with the codes of the house through clothes that feel familiar at first glance—and increasingly strange the longer you look. The presentation marks Margiela’s return to the Paris schedule after its previous Fall 2026 outing in Shanghai, while Martens is now focusing fully on Maison Margiela following the end of his tenure at Diesel.
Looking specifically at the menswear in the runway images, Spring 2027 is less about spectacle than the subtle disruption of the male wardrobe. Tailoring, denim, leather, knitwear and everyday separates are pushed slightly out of alignment, producing a collection that feels relaxed, imperfect and unmistakably Margiela.
The Suit Comes Undone
One of the strongest ideas is tailoring stripped of its corporate rigidity. Grey suits arrive elongated and slightly loose, with trousers falling naturally rather than being aggressively shaped. A traditional white shirt and grey two-piece can appear almost conventional—until the proportions, styling and deliberately relaxed finish begin to register.
Elsewhere, jackets are worn over soft shirts, waistcoats appear as independent layers and tailoring is mixed with pieces that belong to an entirely different wardrobe. A brilliant blue vest beneath a dark leather jacket and grey trousers is one example of how Martens injects color without allowing it to overwhelm the look.
The collection also plays beautifully with the idea of the three-piece suit. Instead of presenting jacket, waistcoat and trousers as one immaculate uniform, Margiela separates the components and lets them collide with denim, leather and casual footwear.
Denim Becomes Part of the Tailored Wardrobe
Denim is particularly important in these menswear looks.
Rather than functioning strictly as workwear, washed jeans are paired with structured coats and jackets. One standout combination places faded blue denim beneath a long, immaculate white overcoat. Another teams loose, heavily washed jeans with a beige waistcoat and dark leather jacket.
It is that tension that makes these looks successful: polished versus worn, formal versus ordinary, precious versus familiar.
Margiela has long been associated with reappropriation and the transformation of everyday clothing, and Martens has previously spoken about reconnecting the house’s ready-to-wear with the reality of the street.
Leather, Transparency and Clothes That Look Lived In
Leather brings a tougher energy.
Black leather jackets are deliberately softened rather than presented as pristine luxury objects. One is worn over a reddish semi-sheer top and deep navy trousers; another accompanies denim and a muted waistcoat. Leather trousers also appear alongside a cropped white jacket, creating one of the sharper propositions in the lineup.
The silhouettes rarely look overly controlled. Shirts are left open, layers hang below jackets and trousers pool or break naturally around the shoes.
There is also a sensuality running through the collection. An open blue jacket worn directly against the chest with pale trousers is remarkably simple, yet it becomes one of the strongest menswear statements in the group. Elsewhere, sleeveless and semi-transparent layers reveal the body without turning the collection into overtly sexy fashion.
Color Interrupts the Neutrals
Margiela’s palette moves through black, white, grey, beige, washed blue and earthy brown, but sudden injections of color keep the collection alive.
Bright yellow appears against khaki trousers. Electric blue interrupts grey tailoring. Orange sits underneath navy. Red footwear transforms an otherwise subdued combination of washed denim, beige and black.
Even the printed shirts feel intentionally irregular. A vivid red patterned shirt beneath a pale jacket or an abstract multicolored shirt underneath leather introduces a slightly thrifted, found-object quality.
Nothing feels excessively coordinated—and that appears to be precisely the point.
A More Wearable Margiela Man
Perhaps the most interesting thing about Spring/Summer 2027 is how wearable much of the menswear actually looks.
Strip away the runway styling and there are strong individual propositions: long coats, relaxed grey suits, washed jeans, leather jackets, fluid trousers, knitted shirts, waistcoats and lightweight summer layers.
Martens isn’t abandoning Margiela’s tradition of questioning how clothes should be constructed or worn. Instead, he appears to be placing those experiments inside a recognizable contemporary wardrobe.
The result is a Margiela man who doesn’t necessarily look like he has been meticulously styled. His jacket might be too long. His jeans might look old. His shirt might hang strangely beneath his blazer. His tailoring might be interrupted by a flash of orange or electric blue.
And therein lies the appeal: Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2027 proposes elegance without perfection.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2027
The way Martens lets tailoring come undone feels a bit like styling a doll in classic dress up games, where mismatched pieces somehow work together. The washed denim paired with structured coats is my favorite detail here. https://yuuni-hanfu.com/classic-dress-up-games/