Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, now under the design direction of @julianklausner, is a striking evolution of the brand’s signature aesthetic. While the collection resonates with gothic undertones reminiscent of Anne Rice’s Interview with the Vampire, it also introduces a fresh, raw energy inspired by William Burroughs’ The Wild Boys. This literary reference infuses the collection with a rebellious edge, merging structured masculinity with fluid femininity.
The garments exhibit a masterful use of contrasts—sharp tailoring is softened by fluid drapery, while rich textures like velvet and silk juxtapose with crisp wool and leather. Hints of gothic romance, with high-neck blouses, lace detailing, and dark, brooding color palettes, elevate the masculine archetype into something both timeless and otherworldly. The collection transforms traditional suiting into wearable art, adorned with unexpected embellishments that feel simultaneously vintage and avant-garde.
Uniform elements are reimagined with bold experimentation: exaggerated proportions, dramatic “gestural sleeves,” and dynamic tailoring create a captivating push-and-pull between control and freedom. The balance of masculine and feminine energies is thoughtfully executed—blurring lines, yet staying cohesive and wearable. Klausner’s vision builds on Dries’ legacy while injecting new life into the house’s DNA.
Dries Van Noten’s ability to channel artistic influences into his designs is palpable here. The collection exudes a vampiric allure, blending the haunting elegance of a gothic novel with the refined poise of high fashion. The result is hypnotic, shocking, and unapologetically sensual—a powerful commentary on the fluidity of masculinity and the enduring appeal of mystery and seduction.
For fans of Dries, this collection feels like a reassurance—we’re in good hands. It’s bold yet sensitive, dramatic yet grounded, proving that the house continues to be a bastion of intelligent, emotional design.
Photography: @WillyVanderperre
