stylish

It was a mellow and dapper collection from Junichi Abe for his brand Kolor, and not only because of the warmth of the downbeat jazzy soundtrack — it was one of his best Kolor collections to date, full of nonchalant smartness.

Each season, there are apparently a dozen or so Issey Miyake collections that we, the press, don’t get to see. They distill the often-obtuse influences of the main line into palatable edits.

Voluptuous: A word seldom heard in men’s wear, but a trenchant summation for a mesmerizing fall collection from Rick Owens, who provided the descriptor backstage. Thanks, Rick!

Backstage, Y/Project’s Glenn Martens mentioned how contemporary urban life prompts schizophrenic behavior (most people toss around the word without overthinking its seriousness as a severe mental illness).

What Raf Simons has been doing with his fashion shows for the last two years now is fascinating. He’s been consistently chafing at the confines of the industry, challenging perceptions of his work.

Walter Van Beirendonck is a Belgian fashion designer. He graduated in 1980 from the Royal Arts Academy in Antwerp. Together with Dirk Van Saene, Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee and Dirk Bikkembergs they became known as the Antwerp Six.