There is rarely a whiff of any androgyny at Bottega Veneta, where Tomas Maier plies lived-in-looking, resolutely masculine fashions that are nevertheless painstakingly detailed.

Showing fanaticism stripes and typographic prints, the Spring / Summer 2017 collection Andrea Pompilio brought to form lookbook is a reference to the effortless attitude of the season, which captures essential elements of the male wardrobe a new vision of the sporty and functional fashion.

Never one to hem and haw in fashion, Neil Barrett went whole hog for Seventies Americana, as if seen from the windows of a Winnebago in Yosemite National Park. This was a repetitive show. Gosh knows how many leather blousons passed by, most of them in sickly thrift-shop browns with contrasting strips inserted in chevron formation around the ribcage and fanning out over the sleeves.

According to show notes, Les Hommes’ spring collection was inspired by the Spanish conquest of South America. But apart from the tribal motifs embroidered on bomber jackets and sweatshirts, creative directors Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch didn’t explore the theme in-depth. In fact, they seemed to channel a more generic military inspiration.

Awkward proportions, which can be a signpost of that tender moment between boyhood and manhood, seem to be a perpetual fascination chez Marni. It was amplified in Consuelo Castiglioni’s uneven spring collection.

Still cinematic, but easier to imagine off the big screen: that was the big takeaway from Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label presentation at its Milan palazzo.